Electrical mods: Trying to avoid being rear-ended!


Being rear-ended on a bike really sucks! Take my word for it…

So in an effort to avoid becoming someone's hood ornament, I have performed some mods to the bike to make it more visible to following motorists. The center (stock) brake light flashes a few times when I put on the brakes, while the outer lights (stock turn signals) burn as low-level running lights, flash as brighter turn signals, and light up brightly as solid, non-flashing brake lights when I put on the brakes. Between the extra lights and the flashing, I figure the bike is about 10X as visible from behind at night.

Kisan Tailblazer Deceleration Warning:

This is a great little gadget! It consists of a halogen bulb (about four times brighter than the stock #1157 bulb) and a microprocessor base. You simply remove the two screws that hold on the taillight lens, take out the stock bulb, and slip in the trailblazer. Re-install the taillight lens and you're done. Just don't touch the bulb as you put it in!! Touch only the base, or the bulb will burn out after one day. Again, trust me on this one…

The unit acts as a brake light modulator with a brain. While a flashing brake light certainly makes a motorcycle more visible from behind, I HATE being behind a vehicle with an incessantly flashing light at a stoplight. The Trailblazer's microchip gives you the best of both worlds: when you apply the brakes, the light flashes with an exponential decay pattern, which is a fancy way of saying that it flashes rapidly at first, then the flashing rapidly slows until after 4 seconds the light stays solid. Perfect! The operation of the taillight is not effected in any way.

The unit costs about $59, tough you can often find them on sale a little cheaper. Intruders use model number 10W-D (dual contact), while bikes with a single contact take part number 10W-S. It comes with a spare bulb, and you can even adjust the brightness of the taillight, either for maximum brightness or maximum contrast between taillight and brake light.

If I had my way, there would be a law that all motorcycles have to come with one of these from the factory.

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Kuryakyn Run-Turn-Brake Conversion Module:

The taillight/ brake light on a motorcycle is rather small, so any additional lighting would be nice. The front turn signals on an Intruder are also running lights, but the rear ones are only turn signals.

To rectify this, I bought a little module from Kuryakyn. This gets wired into your light system, and it turns the signals into running lights, illuminated at a lower level all the time. Secondly, they act as brake lights, illuminating at full brightness when the brakes are depressed. And lastly, they still flash at the higher level when you turn on the directionals. If you use LED lights, you will need to use the little additional module that comes with the controler module. It just plugs into the white plug.

To Install: You need an 11mm socket, a Philips head screwdriver, some cutting pliers, wire strippers, razor knife, and a lighter to heat the shrink tubing.

Remove the side covers, front and rear seats.

Locate the wiring bundles going to the brake/ taillight, the left directional, and the right directional. Trace them back to where they plug into the mess of wires under the seat.

Start with the harness for the tail/ brake light. Cut it, and strip back about ¼ inch of wire from each of the three wires inside the bundle: one brown, one while with a black stripe, and one black with a white stripe.

Splice the black wire on the new module into the wire that is black w/ white stripe. This is the ground. Make sure you use the shrink tubing that comes with the module, remembering to slip a piece of shrink tubing over the wire BEFORE you make the connection. Once again, take my work for this…

Splice the blue wire on the module into the brown wire. This provides power whenever the key is turned on, just like the taillight.

Splice the red wire on the module into the wire that is white w/black stripe. This is the input for the brake light.

Once you have checked all the connections and shrunk on the tubing to make them watertight and insolated, turn your attention to the turn signals.

Use the razor knife to cut away the outer cover only of the wiring harness to the left turn signal. Cut ONLY the solid black wire, and splice in the violet wire from the module. This will power the turn signal, and override all other signals to the lamp so that the signal will flash even when the brakes are on. Again, make sure you make a good connection and then shrink on some tubing.

Now do the same with the right turn signal wiring harness, only cut and splice into the light green wire. When you have all the connections, fire up the bike. The rear lights should glow along with the taillight, light up bright with the brake light, and flash brightly with the turn signals.

Make sure all the wires are where they should be, and use one of the little cable ties that comes with the module to secure it to something in that mess of stuff under the seat.
Put the seats and side covers back on, and you're done.

The install on my bike took 45 minutes, and that included at least 15 minutes looking for a lighter that worked.


The cost is about $37, plus some paint.

Paint? What's with the paint?

Well, it is illegal to have brake lights, or rear-facing running lights, with amber lenses. Suzuki does not make red lenses for the Intruder, so we have to paint the ones we have. A couple light coats of Krylon Stained Glass Red will do the trick, or if you live near a craft store get some red stained glass tinting solution. I bought some Gallery Glass Window Color (Berry Red) at Hobby Lobby, squeezed some into the lens, and spread it around with a small paintbrush. It took three coats. No matter if you use the stained glass tint or the spray paint, paint only the INSIDE of the lenses, so that they light up red when the bulbs are on but retain the stock appearance from the outside. Go lightly on the paint, as the idea is to let the light shine through them.


Alternately, you can buy red bulbs and clear lenses, which are available from several manufacturers now.
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