- Clutch plate kit, EBC part number CK3377
- Clutch spring kit, EBC part number CSK26
- Clutch side engine cover gasket, Suzuki part number 11482-41F00
- 3 quarts of your favorite oil
- 1 oil filter
- Torque Wrench
- Ratchet with extension
- 6mm Allen wrench
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 14mm socket or wrench
- Oil filter wrench
- Oil drain pan
- Small needlenose pliers
- Gasket scraper or razor blade
- Gasket sealer
I did this clutch on Roger's VS800, which had a slipping clutch. Check out the extended range fuel tank with the sweet custom paint. Roger goes by "WildWolf" on the Intruder Alert site.
Drain the oil (14mm drain plug), and remove the filter. After all the oil has drained out, put a new filter on and put the plug back in, but don't fill the oil.
Lean the bike against the wall, or even the front bumper of your car. We put this one with the front wheel turned into the corner to it wouldn't flop, with the rear wheel blocked so the bike could not roll forward or back.
Remove the bracket that holds the footpegs and side stand on. There are 8 bolts, four on each side. The outside two on each side have a cotter pin (see pic below) which has to be removed before you can take out the bolt. Pull them out with the needlenose pliers, then remove all eight bolts with the allen wrench. Drop the bracket down.
Remove the two bolts that hold the exhaust head pipe to the cylinder. Pull the headpipe down far enough that you can access the bolts along the bottom of the engine cover.
The case cover bolts are different sizes, and some gave a gasket, so they need to go back exactly where they came out. Use some cardboard or an old box as a templet for the case cover bolts, pushing then through the cardboard as you remove each one. make sure you have them all out, even the bottom rear one that hides behind the rear brake line.
You may need to tap the cover a few times with a rubber mallet to loosen it. Do not pry it with a screwdriverr, or you may damage the case or the gasket surface. A putty knife is OK if you are gentle. Pull the cover off to expose the clutch basket and onther internals.
Use a socket to remove the clutch spring bolts. Loosen them in a cross-hatch pattern to releave the tension evenly, then remove the bolts.
Pull off the clutch pressure plate. Don't loose the little bearing- a drop of oil will hold it in place when you put it back together.
Here is the clutch pack, alternating steel and friction plates. The clutch kit only comes with friction plates, but I have always re-used the steel plates. If you are worried about them, check each one by laying it on a piece of glass, or with a metal ruler as you put them back.
Put the new clutch in, alternating friction and steel plates in exactly the same order as the stock clutch. You'll have one steel plate left over, as the new clutch has 6 thick plates instead of 7 thinner ones.
Put the clutch preasure plate back on, and slip the new springs in the indentations. Thread a bolt into each, and tighten them evenly in a cross-hatch pattern. When they are just finger tight, get your torque wrench and torque each to 8-9 ft-lbs. Do NOT tighten them by hand and guess at the torque, and DO NOT overtighten them, as the bolts are designed to snap easily to protect other parts.
Scrape the case cover clean of all traces of gasket material, being careful not to scratch the surface. A gasket scraper or razer blade will work, followed by a 3M pad or some solvent. Clean the cover well before putting it back on, as any grit, gasket material, or other gunk left in the case will end up in the oil.
Coat the cover's gasket surface with a LITTLE gasket sealer, and once it is tacky place the new gasket on the cover. This will stick the gasket to the cover, but not the motor case, so if something is wrong and you need to pull it back off the gasket will come off cleanly with the cover.
Put the case cover back on, and put the bolts in finger tight one at a time in the same hole they came out of. Torque them to 8-9 ft-lbs in a cross hatch pattern. Pull the head pipe back up, and put the two bolts back in, tightening them nice and tight. Push the footpeg bracket back up, and thread the 8 allen bolts in (the short ones go inside, the longer ones with the holes go to the outside). Once they are all started, tighten them to finger tight, then tighten them all as tight as you can get them with the allen wrench. Push the little cotter pins back in the outer four bolts.
Take it for a test drive! Now is also a good
time to change the clutch fluid.